1) Safety first (2 minutes)

• Wear gloves, goggles, and a mask/respirator (N95/FFP2).

• Open windows and run a fan facing out to vent air.

• Call a pro if: one continuous patch is larger than a door mat (≈1 m²/10 ft²), there’s strong musty odor after cleaning, you had flooding/sewage, or anyone at home has severe asthma/allergies.

2) Stop the moisture (so it doesn’t return)

Most mold/peeling starts with damp walls. Fix that first—often free or cheap:

• Find the source: roof/plumbing leak, window seepage, shower steam, or condensation on cold walls.

• Quick fixes

  • Tighten/replace leaky fittings, re-seal around tubs/sinks/windows with mildew-resistant silicone.

  • Run bathroom/kitchen exhaust fans during use and 15–20 min after.

  • Keep indoor humidity 40–55% (use a dehumidifier in rainy seasons).

  • Pull large furniture 5–10 cm (2–4 in) off exterior walls for airflow.

  • In corners that condense, add a draft-stop (seal gaps) or a thin foam/insulation panel behind furniture.

3) Dry the wall (free, just time)

• Aim a fan at the damp area and, if possible, a second fan across the room to keep air moving.

• Run a dehumidifier or AC to help.

• Let surfaces dry fully (often overnight) before cleaning or painting; if you rush, new paint will bubble.

4) Remove loose paint cleanly

• Lay down newspaper/cardboard.

• Use a wide putty knife/scraper to lift only paint that’s already loose or blistered.

• Feather sand the edges of intact paint (120–180 grit) so the surface feels smooth to the touch.

• Vacuum dust and wipe with a slightly damp cloth; allow to dry.

5) Clean small, surface mold (budget methods that work)

Pick one method below; never mix chemicals. Always test a small spot first.

Dish-soap solution (gentle, universal)

• 1 liter warm water + 1–2 drops dish soap.

• Wipe the area, rinse with clean water, dry completely.

White vinegar (great on tile/painted plaster)

• Use undiluted white vinegar in a spray bottle.

• Spray, wait 10–15 min, wipe.

• Rinse lightly with water, dry with a fan.

3% hydrogen peroxide (stain fighter)

• Spray 3% solution, let it foam for 10 min, wipe.

• Rinse and dry.

Baking-soda rinse (deodorize + inhibit)

• 1 teaspoon baking soda in 500 ml water.

• Wipe after cleaning; do not leave heavy residue (light film is fine). Dry well.

For porous/soft materials (unsealed drywall paper, acoustic panels): if the mold looks embedded rather than surface-level, the cheapest reliable fix is to cut out a small patch, let the cavity dry, then patch with new drywall and joint compound. For tiny scars or paper tears, seal first (see primer step).

6) Disinfect adjacent gaps and joints

• Remove old, moldy caulk around tubs/sinks.

• Wipe the gap with vinegar or peroxide; let dry.

• Re-caulk with mildew-resistant silicone. This single step prevents many comebacks.

7) Prime so stains don’t bleed through

A good primer is the best money you’ll spend here.

• Use a stain-blocking, mold-resistant acrylic primer (often labeled “for bathrooms/kitchens” or “with mildewcide”).

• On areas with torn drywall paper or minor pitting, apply a sealing primer first, then a second coat of stain-blocking primer.

• Let each coat dry per label; don’t shortcut this or you’ll see yellow/brown stains later.

8) Patch, sand, and make it disappear

• Fill chips and shallow divots with ready-mix joint compound or lightweight spackle.

• Let it dry, sand smooth (180–220 grit), dust off, and spot-prime patched spots again.

9) Paint for damp rooms (washable = longer-lasting)

• Choose a satin or semi-gloss in bathrooms/kitchens; it resists moisture and cleans easily.

• Consider a mildew-resistant interior paint or add an anti-mold paint additive (low cost).

• Apply two thin coats, allowing proper dry time between coats.

10) Low-cost prevention habits

• After showers: door or window open + fan for 15–20 min.

• Weekly: quick wipe of corners and window frames; check for condensation lines.

• Monthly: clean exhaust fan covers and ensure they actually vent outside.

• Seasonally: look behind wardrobes/bookshelves on exterior walls; if cool and damp, increase spacing or add small felt/foam spacers.

11) Troubleshooting quick guide

• Mold returns within weeks → Moisture persists. Recheck fan run-time, leaks, and humidity. Consider a small dehumidifier.

• New paint peels/bubbles → Surface wasn’t fully dry or primed. Dry, sand lightly, prime properly, repaint.

• Yellow stains bleeding through → Use a stain-blocking primer (one or two coats), then repaint.

• Cold wall keeps condensing → Improve airflow, seal drafts, add a slim insulating lining or thermal paint in that zone.

12) Budget shopping list (flexible)

• Gloves, goggles, N95/FFP2 mask

• Putty knife + 120/180/220-grit sandpaper

• Microfiber cloths + bucket + dish soap

• White vinegar or 3% hydrogen peroxide (choose one)

• Baking soda (optional rinse)

• Mildew-resistant silicone caulk + caulk tool

• Stain-blocking, mold-resistant primer (1–2 liters for a small room)

• Joint compound/spackle + small sanding block

• Washable interior paint (satin/semi-gloss for damp rooms)

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The takeaway

Treat small mold and peeling like a moisture problem first, a cleaning task second, and a paint-prep job third. If you dry thoroughly, clean with one safe method, prime correctly, and improve airflow, your walls will stay clean and intact far longer—without expensive products or specialist tools.